Fashion in Themys

From Themys Project

Dress codes

Formality Day Evening
Formal Lounge wear Evening wear
Professional Bureau wear
Casual Casual wear

Bureau wear

Classic suit style, featuring breast pockets and turndown collars
Modern suit style, featuring a single handkerchief pocket and standing collars
Waistcoat variant of the modern style, common in warm climates
East Tarsic variant of the modern style, featuring knotted buttons

Bureau wear is a style of clothing associated with professional or political contexts. This commonly entails the wearing of a suit, though local custom and the degree of formality varies. A dress shirt with standing collar is usually worn under a suit jacket or waistcoat, paired with matching trousers ranging in color generally from black or grey to tan.

Bureau wear originated in the 15th century AC as the style of excellence of urban professionals, namely merchants and bureocrats, in Azoran cities. By the late 14th century AC, the suit had become a sort of "class uniform" of the burgeoning middle class, establishing itself in contrast to the garishly-colored fitted coat of the aristocracy. The advent of the Age of Revolution saw this distinction gain political significance, influencing fashion across class lines throughout Azora and the wider world.

The design of bureau wear has evolved throughout the decades, influenced both by cross-contact with other cultures and by social and political upheavals at home. The growing autonomy of women over the 15th and 16th centuries AC, dictated the expansion of bureau wear to include them. Simultaneously, increased contact with the Eastern World, through colonial and commercial interests, brought Eastern designs such as the gwanjang or the labada to the fore. These influences, coupled with the emulation of Western styles in the Golden Arch region, would increasingly dictate the adoption of bureau wear as a truly global style.

More recently, from the mid-16th century AC onward, the primary divide has been between the so-called classic style, characterized by the presence of breast pockets and prominent turndown collars, and the modern style, characterized by a flat or absent collar and a more streamlined look. These two styles frequently intersect, rising and falling in popularity throughout past decades.

Lounge wear

Classic lounge wear featuring a double-breasted waistcoat and necktie
South Tarsic variant of lounge wear featuring a tunic and loose trousers
Lounge wear worn with a suit jacket as a day wear or semi-formal evening wear alternative
Contemporary South Tarsic single-breasted waistcoat
Contemporary double-breasted lounge suit

Lounge wear, once the preferred leisurely day wear for men, is now mostly worn for formal or semi-formal daytime events. A dress shirt or blouse is paired with a waistcoat and trousers, complimented occasionally by the use of a handkerchief or necktie. The waistcoat differs in design from bureau wear through the presence of a wider or V-shaped neckline, sometimes incorporating a lapel. The waistcoat is shorter as well, to facilitate horseriding. Colours are flexible and varied, with the most common style combining a brightly-colored waistcoat with a white shirt and neutral-coloured trousers.

Lounge wear originated in Azora from the late 14th to the mid-15th century. It resulted from the intersection of bourgeois professional styles, such as the bureau suit, and aristocratic fashions. The early 15th Century saw the latter increasingly stigmatized. Lounge wear, in contrast, rose to prominence by mirroring professional or military attire in form, while incorporating the ornamentation and color of the dwindling aristocratic style.

Lounge wear in the evening

Originally reserved for daytime use, lounge wear increasingly became appropriate evening attire over the second half of the 15th century. In such circumstances, a long coat or suit jacket would be worn over the waistcoat, giving the wearer a silhouette resembling that of the evening jacket. From the late 15th to early 16th centuries, this style would develop a distinct identity. A suit jacket, worn over the waistcoat, allowed for a style suitable for both day and evening wear. This would develop further into the first modern-day casual suits.

Evening wear

Contemporary evening suit
Evening suit worn with a sash
East Tarsic variant of the evening suit

Evening wear is the most formal dress code for evening events. The evening jacket is a knee-length long coat which is buttoned at the torso. It is worn with a dress shirt, white fitted trousers, and black leather dress shoes. Accessories may include a belt, a style associated with military dining uniform, or a sash, typically in the same color as the dress shirt, and worn around the waist or over the shoulder.

Unlike lounge wear, contemporary evening wear developed primarily through direct Azoran contact with South and East Tarsic designs, such as the formal sherwani and the informal chamber gown. The modern evening coat was as an adaptation of these styles, with a silhouette adapted from lounge wear and serving a similar purpose to the dwindling frock coat in night-time social events.

In the modern day, evening wear is usually reserved only for the most formal or festive of occasions, such as state dinners, balls, galas, and some traditional wedding receptions.